We have built and installed the custom door and have begun working on finalizing the interior and other details to make this trailer complete. Below are a number of images of the work that has been done! Enjoy!
As the pictures show, the original trailer was de-constructed down to the rolling chassis.
All exterior hardware was replaced with stainless-steel. No other RV company does that because of the expense. They always use zinc-plated steel, which eventually rusts and stains the exterior.
Also, the industry standard for frame assemblage is staples. I refrained from using staples and used L-brackets instead. The entire frame is self-standing and a stronger one won't be found.
I installed two independent electrical systems; one runs lights and the air pump (for plumbing pressure), and the other is a 110 volt system on a 15 amp breaker which runs lights and ten (10) outlets. I have also included a new charger for the deep-cycle battery.
The trailer is completely insulated with high-density foam-board insulation. This is also unique to trailer design (also because of cost), where you'll find most manufactured trailers are lined with itchy, fiberglass insulation.
The exterior (skin) is triple-sealed against water damage. First, before installing the foam-board, I mixed a concoction to coat the wooden frame and waterproof it. I used the highest quality water-based exterior wood glue and mixed it (ratio 1/1) with water. I then "painted" it on the frame. I assembled the skin and sealed the seams with clay tape, after which I closed all gaps and seam edges with latex based silicone caulk. This is preferred over pure silicone because when silicone cures, it sticks to itself better than it sticks to a surface (especially true of smooth surfaces); in other words, if part of it comes off, all of it comes off and you're stuck with lots of water damage. Latex has a grainy texture that resists removal - besides, latex "shares" it's binding element better.
1 comment:
coming along nicely!
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