Well we've completed the exterior and only have a few things left on the interior to fix up, including the floor and the painting, and we are getting ready to sell this project!
It has been quite a project and we are ready to sell it to someone who will be able to use it to its fullest potential!
Here are the latest shots of the exterior. I will post pictures of the finished interior as soon as it is completed.
Due to the fact that the weather has taken an odd turn towards fall and the day is foggy, wet, and about 60 degrees, it seemed like a good time to put up the most recent photos of the trailer, as no work can be done in this weather!
The sides are on, and the interior is nearly finished. Photos proving these facts can be found below:
As the pictures show, the original trailer was de-constructed down to the rolling chassis.
All exterior hardware was replaced with stainless-steel. No other RV company does that because of the expense. They always use zinc-plated steel, which eventually rusts and stains the exterior.
Also, the industry standard for frame assemblage is staples. I refrained from using staples and used L-brackets instead. The entire frame is self-standing and a stronger one won't be found.
I installed two independent electrical systems; one runs lights and the air pump (for plumbing pressure), and the other is a 110 volt system on a 15 amp breaker which runs lights and ten (10) outlets. I have also included a new charger for the deep-cycle battery.
The trailer is completely insulated with high-density foam-board insulation. This is also unique to trailer design (also because of cost), where you'll find most manufactured trailers are lined with itchy, fiberglass insulation.
The exterior (skin) is triple-sealed against water damage. First, before installing the foam-board, I mixed a concoction to coat the wooden frame and waterproof it. I used the highest quality water-based exterior wood glue and mixed it (ratio 1/1) with water. I then "painted" it on the frame. I assembled the skin and sealed the seams with clay tape, after which I closed all gaps and seam edges with latex based silicone caulk. This is preferred over pure silicone because when silicone cures, it sticks to itself better than it sticks to a surface (especially true of smooth surfaces); in other words, if part of it comes off, all of it comes off and you're stuck with lots of water damage. Latex has a grainy texture that resists removal - besides, latex "shares" it's binding element better.